Visual Tales: Hi Stephen, thanks for allowing us to shoot your amazing collection way back in February when your collection was just presented right after NY Fashion Week. Tell us about Atelier Cillian, how did you come up with that name and how was the path for you on creating your own label?
Stephen Mikhail: Hi! Of course, and thank you for the support! The name Cillian comes from an old Celtic word, “ceallach” meaning “little warrior” in some definitions and “bright-headed” in others. It’s the name I had always wished I had so when I started to develop this collection, it was an easy decision. As regard to my path to creating my own label, honestly, the question regarding my path in creating this label can be an entire interview on its own! There are many twists and turns as it’s rarely straightforward regardless of how well-prepared one might be. It’s not for the faint of heart but I wouldn't have it any other way.
VT: Perhaps due to the pandemic times we were living in, there seem to be a shortage of new New York based designers that are doing men’s tailoring in fashion. It is really refreshing to see a brand new menswear label decided to choose this category. Strange question as it might sound, why did you chose this sartorial direction.
SM: I don’t think the shortage of tailoring is due to the pandemic at all. I feel the US market has been lacking interest in this department for some time. I’ve spent my life split between London and New York for the most part and I’ve lived all over the world for moments in time from Singapore to Dubai. Tailoring is an art the rest of the world certainly appreciates still, it just seems to be an American market that really let it slip away. We are more than just tailored suits, though. We’re definitely a rounded label with a wide offering which you will see in the next two seasons, but I have a deep love of tailoring in particular and for the first season I wanted to showcase it front and centre. The Briton in me will always bring forward an air of sartorial elegance, it’s just my nature. Who doesn’t love a bit of pageantry?
VT: Your design career is pretty diverse and impressive, from honing your craft for brands such as Catherine Malandrino, Diane von Furstenberg and Alexander McQueen. What did you learn from working for these designers and how did it prepare yourself when it came time to setting up your own label?
SM: I feel the most valuable bit I’ve learned is the process of production from pattern development to sampling. I think everyone has a vastly different creative process. None of this is what they teach in school, so I’ve always thought if you want to be a Creative Director, your best bet is getting out into the world and experiencing it for yourself. I've never learned how to sew myself, but by observing and absorbing, I became well-versed in the vocabulary of fashion quite quickly. It’s like learning a new language; the most effective way of learning it is through immersion.
VT: A lot has evolved when it comes to the world of menswear (with gender fluidity, diversity and sustainability), what’s your view on menswear market today and how would like to envision change going forward?
SM: It is my view of humankind, and nature in general, that within all of us exists a balance between masculine and feminine…it’s just a matter of how much we let that instinct guide our attributes and behaviors. Dating back to antiquity and the beginning of garments construction and adornments, the border between what is considered “men’s” or “women’s” was quite blurred. As time went on, societies advanced and began using wardrobe as a means of expression. Men wore regal brocade capes trimmed in ermine in the Tudor era and Louis XIV was one of the first people in history to wear a high heel. When did we as a collective society decide all of a sudden that such a thing would be considered “masculine” or “feminine”? In nature, many male counterparts within their species exhibit flamboyant colors to behaviors from birds of paradise to peacocks, and quite often the opposite. What I surmise from history is that people should have the confidence to dress as who they are and how they feel regardless of what others think because at one point in time, someone had to be the first to wear something before it became the modus operandi.
VT: Your collection is entitled The Misdeeds Of Dashwood—what’s your thought/design process.
SM: My design process is different every season. Sometimes I start with inspiration which is my more typical method. Others I want to tell a story around a certain colour palette. It differs every time. Sometimes I dive heavily into historical research and other times I just have a feeling I want to project and collect images that represent the story I want to tell and it comes together from there.
VT: You worked very closely with recording artist Machine Gun Kelly and his stylist, Adam Ballheim on custom looks for MGK (A frequent client of your sartorial looks), share with us your collaboration. Going forward, who are some of the talents you would love to envision wearing your looks that suits your narrative?
SM: Firstly, Adam and I work spectacularly well together. We trust one another which I think is the key. MGK is a dream client because he truly is adventurous and unafraid of trying new things and as a designer, what more could you ask for? As for future clients, there are SO many people I’d love to dress. Timothee Chalamet, Shawn Mendes, Robert Pattinson, Rege Jean Page, Angus Cloud, Harry Styles, Henry Golding, Rami Malek, Matt Smith, Pharrell, Jake Gyllenhaal, Neil Patrick Harris…I could go on forever.
VT: You will be launching your new resort collection, out soon. Let us know what to expect?
SM: Resort 2023 is called “The Divine Thread” based on an Ancient Greek myth. That’s all I can say for now!
VT: For someone who is discovering your collection for the first time but might not have the budget to buy an entire look, if you can recommend one item that would best represent your collection and that someone should buy, which item would it be?
SM: Either a draped knit or a tweed blazer would suffice!
VT: If there is one adjective that best describe about how you feel about where you are with your brand and collection, what adjective would you choose?
SM: Confident!
Aiden Neeper
19
Detroit, Michigan
Describe your role as a model and what it means to you to be given this opportunity?
I am very fortunate to be given the opportunity to model in NYC this year. It has been quite a ride as I moved from Michigan at 18 in August to start. To be a model allows me to portray the designer’s vision as I work with other models, photographers, stylists, hair and makeup artists, etc. I enjoy the people I meet on my journey and am very grateful for an opportunity like this.
On a given shoot, how do you prepare yourself prior to a modeling assignment?
There are two steps in my preparation for a shoot. My first step includes hoping out of bed to shower, shave, and follow up with a skin care routine. The second step includes mental preparation and positive visualization to make sure I am confident and ready for a day on set.
Your favorite moment in modeling so far?
My favorite moment in modeling so far was partaking in the Coach AW ‘22 show. My role was different from the traditional runway walk and I was asked to climb on top a roof and pose. It was by far the biggest moment of my career thus far and it was a completely new experience to me.
Do you keep a regiment to stay in shape since you became a model?
Staying in shape is a huge part of the industry. This year I have amped up my workout regiment to focus on a strict daily routine followed by a great protein intake.
What are your own personal plans outside of modeling?
When I’m not modeling, music is my passion. I love to produce, sing, and write everything myself from my apartment studio. I currently have two projects completed, “The Perfect Storm” and “EVOLUTION”, in my, “THROUGH THE STORM TRILOGY”, available on all streaming platforms under my real and stage name Aiden Neeper. I have goals to continue to push my music and one day perform for the world.
Describe your personal style
Dressing for the streets of New York, I realize, is just as important as dressing for work. A sense of style goes a long way in the city. Traditionally, I follow the classic American style: including polos, button ups, trench coats. However, I have been in love with street style lately and enjoy the brands such as Fear Of God and Off-White, etc.
We are living in a time, where the standards of beauty are being redefine, what's your personal view of what makes someone appealing?
The word beauty always comes from within a person’s heart in my eyes. In the fashion world, what it means for something to be beautiful reflects where it came from. Fashion, when a designer and team’s heart goes into it, is often a good example of the power and beauty fashion can have.
Jordan Barnes
21
Philadelphia, Pennsylvania
Describe your role as a model and what it means to you to be given this opportunity?
It's important to be confident and have a positive attitude. I am still new to the industry so I am learning new things everyday in my role as a model. The opportunity is life changing and it has opened me up to new and unique experiences.
On a given shoot, how do you prepare yourself prior to a modeling assignment?
It's important to get a good night's rest and clear my mind.
Your favorite moment in modeling so far?
Having the opportunity to shoot with Luigi and lango. I greatly admire their work.
Do you keep a regiment to stay in shape since you became a model?
Yes. I watch what I eat, take care of my skin, and keep on top of my physical health.
What are your own personal plans outside of modeling?
I enjoy building cars and I would like to start my own business one day.
Describe your personal style
Relaxed and casual. I'm most comfortable in jeans and a t-shirt.
We are living in a time, where the standards of beauty are ebbing redefine, what's your personal view of what makes some appealing?
Having unique qualities and finding sophistication through simplicity.
Liam Mackenzie
18
New York City, NY
Describe your role as a model and what it means to you to be given this opportunity?
I view modeling as an opportunity to perform, and through that performance, to shift narratives. Just as a dancer might share a message through their movement, or a writer through their words, models have an opportunity to tell their own story through the way they carry themselves in photos.
On a given shoot, how do you prepare yourself prior to a modeling assignment?
I prepare by doing my skin care routine (La Roche-Posay cleanser, moisturizer, serums etc.). Then I try to eat a good breakfast (bacon, eggs, and a smoothie are my go-to). And, finally, I put on an outfit that makes me feel confident (usually some form of flared pants and a vintage top). Mentally, I ask myself a few essential questions before any shoot: How will I choose to carry myself in each photo? How do I want my emotions to read on camera? How will my body convey the story I, or others, want me to tell? I ask these questions before going into any job because I value the intention behind my work. I always want there to be a light behind my eyes when shooting, and the best way for me to do that is by setting clear intentions for myself.
Your favorite moment in modeling so far?
I’ll never forget walking Coach for their fall/winter collection and spring/summer collection. Coach’s team is beyond welcoming, kind, and inspiring. I felt seen, respected, and appreciated while working with them. Runway, for me, is like putting on a show. I’m able to witness photographers, designers, hair-stylists, casting directors etc. collaborate to create one cohesive collection of work. It’s magical to be a part of.
Do you keep a regiment to stay in shape since you became a model?
I work out when I need to redirect my energy into something physical. Modern dance is my main form of physical exercise, and I train three to four times a week. I’ve also started getting into boxing and crossfit at Gotham Gym.
Do you keep a regiment to stay in shape since you became a model?
I am currently a student studying film. Both my parents are in the entertainment industry, and because of that I grew up on film and TV sets. I’ve always been naturally drawn towards directing, acting, and writing. Right now I am of the belief that if an opportunity comes my way I will take it and run with it. I’m also extremely passionate about fashion design. I make most of my own clothes and would love to venture into the field of styling and or design. Clothes are a way to express both the masculine and the femanine sides of myself. Fashion allows me to experiment, evolve, and play with my own personal taste.
Describe your personal style
I would describe my personal style as a mix between David Bowie and Mick Jagger. I tend to lean into the 70’s vibe, while still taking inspiration from current designers such as Harris Reed, Thom Browne, and Daniel Roseberry. For me, it’s all about reinventing vintage fashion with a modern twist.
We are living in a time, where the standards of beauty are being redefine, what's your personal view of what makes someone appealing?
I am most drawn to models who know who they are. That is beauty to me…To proudly own your identity and unapologetically exist, despite the possibility for ridicule or judgment. My beauty standard extends to anyone who exists pridefully in their own skin and knows their own worth without the need for affirmation from others.
by Stephen Mikhail