Visual Tales: Hi Stephen, thanks for allowing us to shoot your amazing collection way back in February when your collection was just presented right after NY Fashion Week. Tell us about Atelier Cillian, how did you come up with that name and how was the path for you on creating your own label?
Stephen Mikhail: Hi! Of course, and thank you for the support! The name Cillian comes from an old Celtic word, “ceallach” meaning “little warrior” in some definitions and “bright-headed” in others. It’s the name I had always wished I had so when I started to develop this collection, it was an easy decision. As regard to my path to creating my own label, honestly, the question regarding my path in creating this label can be an entire interview on its own! There are many twists and turns as it’s rarely straightforward regardless of how well-prepared one might be. It’s not for the faint of heart but I wouldn't have it any other way.

VT: Perhaps due to the pandemic times we were living in, there seem to be a shortage of new New York based designers that are doing men’s tailoring in fashion. It is really refreshing to see a brand new menswear label decided to choose this category. Strange question as it might sound, why did you chose this sartorial direction.
SM: I don’t think the shortage of tailoring is due to the pandemic at all. I feel the US market has been lacking interest in this department for some time. I’ve spent my life split between London and New York for the most part and I’ve lived all over the world for moments in time from Singapore to Dubai. Tailoring is an art the rest of the world certainly appreciates still, it just seems to be an American market that really let it slip away. We are more than just tailored suits, though. We’re definitely a rounded label with a wide offering which you will see in the next two seasons, but I have a deep love of tailoring in particular and for the first season I wanted to showcase it front and centre. The Briton in me will always bring forward an air of sartorial elegance, it’s just my nature. Who doesn’t love a bit of pageantry?

VT: Your design career is pretty diverse and impressive, from honing your craft for brands such as Catherine Malandrino, Diane von Furstenberg and Alexander McQueen. What did you learn from working for these designers and how did it prepare yourself when it came time to setting up your own label?
SM: I feel the most valuable bit I’ve learned is the process of production from pattern development to sampling. I think everyone has a vastly different creative process. None of this is what they teach in school, so I’ve always thought if you want to be a Creative Director, your best bet is getting out into the world and experiencing it for yourself. I've never learned how to sew myself, but by observing and absorbing, I became well-versed in the vocabulary of fashion quite quickly. It’s like learning a new language; the most effective way of learning it is through immersion.

VT: A lot has evolved when it comes to the world of menswear (with gender fluidity, diversity and sustainability), what’s your view on menswear market today and how would like to envision change going forward?
SM: It is my view of humankind, and nature in general, that within all of us exists a balance between masculine and feminine…it’s just a matter of how much we let that instinct guide our attributes and behaviors. Dating back to antiquity and the beginning of garments construction and adornments, the border between what is considered “men’s” or “women’s” was quite blurred. As time went on, societies advanced and began using wardrobe as a means of expression. Men wore regal brocade capes trimmed in ermine in the Tudor era and Louis XIV was one of the first people in history to wear a high heel. When did we as a collective society decide all of a sudden that such a thing would be considered “masculine” or “feminine”? In nature, many male counterparts within their species exhibit flamboyant colors to behaviors from birds of paradise to peacocks, and quite often the opposite. What I surmise from history is that people should have the confidence to dress as who they are and how they feel regardless of what others think because at one point in time, someone had to be the first to wear something before it became the modus operandi.

VT: Your collection is entitled The Misdeeds Of Dashwood—what’s your thought/design process.
SM: My design process is different every season. Sometimes I start with inspiration which is my more typical method. Others I want to tell a story around a certain colour palette. It differs every time. Sometimes I dive heavily into historical research and other times I just have a feeling I want to project and collect images that represent the story I want to tell and it comes together from there.

VT: You worked very closely with recording artist Machine Gun Kelly and his stylist, Adam Ballheim on custom looks for MGK (A frequent client of your sartorial looks), share with us your collaboration. Going forward, who are some of the talents you would love to envision wearing your looks that suits your narrative?
SM: Firstly, Adam and I work spectacularly well together. We trust one another which I think is the key. MGK is a dream client because he truly is adventurous and unafraid of trying new things and as a designer, what more could you ask for? As for future clients, there are SO many people I’d love to dress. Timothee Chalamet, Shawn Mendes, Robert Pattinson, Rege Jean Page, Angus Cloud, Harry Styles, Henry Golding, Rami Malek, Matt Smith, Pharrell, Jake Gyllenhaal, Neil Patrick Harris…I could go on forever.

VT: You will be launching your new resort collection, out soon. Let us know what to expect?
SM: Resort 2023 is called “The Divine Thread” based on an Ancient Greek myth. That’s all I can say for now!

VT: For someone who is discovering your collection for the first time but might not have the budget to buy an entire look, if you can recommend one item that would best represent your collection and that someone should buy, which item would it be?
SM: Either a draped knit or a tweed blazer would suffice!

VT: If there is one adjective that best describe about how you feel about where you are with your brand and collection, what adjective would you choose?
SM: Confident!