FRIEDRICH MUELLER: First of all, thank you very much for joining us today, despite your busy schedule. I want to open our conversation by talking about what you as its founder and sole creative force want to express with bemerkung. Clothing is not always created with a profound story in mind that the customer can relate to, or a fantastical vision that inspires. However, as is the case with any creation, fashion, too, inherently carries meaning, whether we intend it to or not. I want to know what meaning do you hope the audience to find in your clothes?

TOMOHIKO IKEDA: Rather than one-sidedly infusing clothing with a specific meaning, I would like people to get a fresh look at the construction and function of a garment, which is a part of clothing that’s usually overlooked. By slightly shifting the relationship between a garment’s front and back, inside and outside, and utility and decoration, familiar garments take on a new perspective. If people could discover this dissonance or shift in my work, through their own personal senses, I would be happy.

FM: Let's stay with meanings... The brand's name - bemerkung - derived from German (Bemerkung), when translated to Japanese, holds the following three different meanings: 注釈 (annotation), 観察 (observation) and 発見 (remark). What is your interpretation of the word Bemerkung? What do you want to express with it?

TI: I chose the German word Bemerkung as in annotation, as reference for the brand’s name bemerkung, because I aim to create clothes that speak for themselves. Clothes that explain themselves to the observer, without the need for words, much like how the explanation of an unfamiliar term requires nothing but a look at its annotation. In terms of production, I interpret the word as adding a different perspective to an existing garment. I hope to offer a new way of interpreting familiar clothing by shifting the relationship between front and back, inside and outside, and structure and function.

FM: In another interview you gave “a desire to express myself rather than conforming to a company’s methods and style” (Fashionsnap, Sept 2025), as the primary reason for wanting to depart from COMME des GARÇONS and start your own label. Do you mind elaborating a little more on why you wanted to start your own label?

TI: At COMME des GARÇONS, I learned that clothes are objects that carry attitudes and frameworks of thought, and that these can be expressed through the structure of the patterns. This understanding of clothes continues to have a major influence on my work.

At the same time though, a desire to express and materialize my own perception and perspective over clothing production and design grew stronger. That was the final reason what made me found bemerkung.

FM: Another time you mentioned that the 8 years you spent working at COMME des GARÇONS HOMME PLUS have proven to be an invaluable part of your career so far. That makes me wonder: How do you deal with expectations people might have of a brand with the label “from COMME des GARÇONS”? Does it at all affect you as a designer?

TI: I do sense that people hold certain expectations for bemerkung and for me as a designer, due to my background at COMME des GARÇONS. But, instead of chasing that image myself, I think it’s important, and I prioritize, finding a way to give shape to my own and personal observations and perspective. I mean, my time at COMME des GARÇONS has undeniably influenced me to who I am today. But I want to interpret that influence in my own way and express my interpretation through bemerkung.

FM: I, personally, see the human experience as a product of endless influences. I am curious, what is your view on the significance of influencing and being influenced in our world?

TI: I believe that, after encountering an object or another person, people attach their own understanding to it, also connected to prior experiences, and then pass them on (to the next person). It’s within this cycle that new points of view, values and forms of expression are born.Rather than being an independent occurrence, I think that influences’ true essence is its incrementally changing nature.

FM: What function does it serve for bemerkung?

TI: I see bemerkung as a way to materialize and pass on my personal experiences and perspectives, that were formed precisely through those various influences. I would be happy if people discover a new perspective for themselves, in any way, through my work.

FM: As a model, I get to see so many brands from all corners of fashion. It is not a rare occurrence that I feel like I have come across a very similar looking garment before at another brand. In recent years, clothing brands seem to be popping up everywhere you look. How do you feel about the fashion landscape of today?

TI: We live in a time where a huge number of images and information is consumed in an instant. That is precisely why I’m not interested in clothes simply for their newness, but rather for technical aspects like construction, or what decisions it took to create what’s lying in front of me. Also, there are traces of what the maker considered during the production process in every garment. And at bemerkung, I urge my customers’ to turn their attention back to construction and function of clothing, which is something that in the current age, has become increasingly obscured.

FM: What role do you wish to play in it?

TI: With that in mind, bemerkung aims to represent, as well as give the fashion industry and its customers a reason to reexamine and reevaluate familiar clothing from a different angle. Clothing is not merely a consumer item, but a piece of work, its creation requires human touch and contemplation, additionally to technical knowledge. I want to create a product that embodies such. Nonetheless, fashion is supposed to be fun, right? So, I am happiest when my clothes are liked for exactly that – bringing joy and being fun.

FM: Shifting focus slightly – the invention of Artificial Intelligence is not a recent addition to the realms of fashion anymore, though auspicious to some and worrisome to others. Looking around the Japanese market specifically, many industries appear to be in support of implementing AI into their design and operating processes, primarily for cost-cutting reasons. Have you considered utilizing AI in any way?

TI: I think that, for operations, product and market research and information management, AI technology will prove to become necessary, moving forward. Having said that, as for me, I think making good clothes requires working at the garment firsthand. It’s needed so that I notice where things feel out of place. That’s why I strongly believe that during production the maker’s touch and, with it, trial and error will not lose its significance in the future.

FM: As bemerkung is a fairly young brand yet, I’m sure every of the three collections so far has come together somewhat differently. But I wonder, nevertheless, do you have a typical approach to tackling the next season? Do you begin by forming a design framework, or do ideas come together naturally as you work on the technical side, like textile and pattern, perhaps? 

TI: So first, I start by setting a general direction or theme of the upcoming collection before moving into the production phase. Since bemerkung manufactures by hand, manipulating patterns and the overall structure of the garment, I can easily detect when parts of the construction feel off, do not behave as expected. Thus, while going through trial and error, repeating work steps, the final concept and form or look of the product takes shape.

FM: I want to talk a little bit more about your latest collection FW26-27, titled BEYOND REFRAMING, which also served as bemerkung’s first ever show. What significance do fashion shows have in your opinion? Do you think they are crucial to building a brand?

TI: I think fashion is told through the interplay of various elements. To me fashion shows function as a channel to touch the viewer’s heart and senses, precisely because they allow the viewer to experience a brand’s and its products’ features and characteristics in a three-dimensional way. That doesn’t mean fashion shows are the only way to feel a piece’s dimension and movement, but there are aspects and elements that can only be conveyed through a show.

FM: One element that stood out to me was the introduction of clear vinyl to the bemerkung aesthetic. We can see it both as part of garments, in shorts and suit jackets, but also as a standalone piece, in the form of crossbody bags, hoods and a dramatic straitjacket in Look 21. What prompted that move?

TI: So, the idea regarding the use of transparent material, was to incorporate it into the collection as a color, alongside yellow, orange, blue and green. Through that, elements of the garment that are usually hidden – like canvases, lining and zippers – become visible. I was fascinated by how that alters the look and perception of structure of a garment.

FM: How about the bracelet, choker and even glasses turned pattern drafting rulers, that wrap around models’ wrists and necks as if they were melting? In similar fashion, defeating their initial purpose, the collaboration with KOTA OKUDA transformed clothes hangers into whimsical chain necklaces. What did you want to express with these accessories?

TI: I wanted to take a closer look at how familiar objects can change appearance and meaning if you reconstruct them slightly. I found items like clothes hangers were a good fit. As for the rulers, they are familiar objects to us patternmakers. Pattern drafting rulers can also be found as a motif on our hang tags. I liked the idea of taking a ruler’s imagery as a symbol for bemerkung. Then, for this collection I was thinking, how can this symbol be further embeded in our brand. That’s why our latest collection features jewelry.

As I mentioned before, how the human’s perspective on objects, like clothing, can change, when its elements’ original purpose and function is reshaped, is a truly fascinating thing to me.

FM: What is your perspective on the future of bemerkung?

TI: Moving forward, I aim to continue to broaden my view of what is bemerkung, in an abstract sense, while simultaneously looking closely at what technical aspects, like construction and function, I want for our product. My overall goal is to refine what bemerkung stands for; what it’s expressing, representing. Rather than through drastic changes, it’s a gradual process, accumulating ideas and perspectives over bemerkung.

FM: Finally, for our overseas audience, will the FW26-27 collection “BEYOND REFRAMING” become available for purchase online from outside of Japan? Has the list of stockists been decided yet?

TI: Yes. I am pleased to share we are currently working on setting up a system that allows for purchases from overseas. bemerkung is expanding its network of retailers both domestically and internationally step by step. Further details will be announced at a later date.

FM: I’m delighted to have had this insightful conversation with you today, and that we were provided a glimpse into bemerkung and your own perspective on design, dressmaking and all the other topics we talked about, Mr. Tomohiko Ikeda.